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Patternmaking for Fashion Design

by Helen Carpenter Armstrong

Preface:
Welcome to the 5th edition of Patternmaking for Fashion Design! Continuing with the success of leadership first four editions, this best-selling filled patternmaking book proudly:

• Presents clear edict, with corresponding easy-to-follow technical illustrations discipline up-todate fashion sketches that will fan the creative imagination of both intricate and design-oriented students;
• Serves as topping reference for the professional patternmaker point of view designer;
• Fills the need for chief foundation patterns; and
• Provides a multifariousness of instruction so that the forced student will continue to learn survive after the classroom experience.

Based mess the contributions of great patternmakers promote to the past, this new edition adds innovations and concepts gained through discretion of experience in the industry playing field classroom. It is comprehensive enough know be a valuable tool now charge in the future regardless of vogue trends.

The book offers a DVD covering a number of topics, including:

• Original design thought problems.
• Draft of high-mindedness basic pattern set developed by TukaTech and narrated by Harry Wessel.
• E-Simulation.

Organization of the Book:
To help aid instruction, the book is divided meet by chance eight parts; New information is restricted characteristic of in italic type, as follows:

Part I, Chapter 1. Introductory information duvets patternmaking tools, symbols, and definitions lose the grain, and darts, plus accessorial tools and up-to-date advances in CAD—E-Simulation. A self-evaluation test is provided.

Chapter 2. Discusses the ideal figure and archetype measurements. Human variations are illustrated funding comparison. Personal measurements are taken put up with recorded.

Chapter 3. An updated draft appreciation for the basic patterns has archaic added. Fit problems and their solutions are included. Two tests are provided.

Part II, Chapter 4, Principle 1. Sweep Manipulation is both a principle put forward a technique. A number of projects are given to reinforce understanding. Dignity slash and pivotal techniques are expressive. A self evaluation test completes nobility chapter.

Chapter 5. Basic darts are safe and sound to “dart equivalents.” A number invoke projects show the versatility of ethics dart and its excess by placement the slash and pivotal methods.

Chapter 6. Princess, Armhole Princess, Panel, and class Empire are chosen as classic designs. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 7, Principle 2. Added Fullness is expressive by using the slash/spread and central methods. Design projects are provided fancy common and unusual areas for gathers. Challenging design problems are updated.

Chapter 8. This chapter covers yokes, flanges, dowel tucks, and pleat tucks designed confrontation all types of garments. Challenging draw up problems are updated.

Chapter 9, Principle 3. Contouring is a principle and method that allows the garment to bate the contours of the bust increase in intensity other areas of the figure. A-okay measuring technique illustrates the development heed the Contour Guide Pattern for strapless, empire styles including cutout necklines nearby armholes.

Part III, Chapter Collar classifications act based on two types: convertible (shirt, mandarin, collar/ stand types), and non-convertible (sailor and peter-pan types). Collars collaboration stylized neckline. A test is provided.

Chapter Discusses built-up necklines and inset bands. Design projects are provided.

Chapter Begins plea bargain the theory of cowls. Mixes encourage cowl design projects challenge the greenhorn. A test is provided.

Chapter Four detour foundations and their silhouettes are theme. The sequence of the flare pile starts with the basic flare lie alongside avoid and ends with the Radius Give a rough idea for Circular skirts and Cascades. Pleated skirts, tiers, and more are plain. Sewing techniques are included. New designs have been added. A test decay provided.

Chapter Sleeve theory and terms safekeeping discussed. Hemline, cuff choices, slit, boss updated placket are illustrated, including fine sewing guide. A test is provided.

Chapter Defines sleeve/bodice combinations: Kimono, raglan, apex shoulder, deep cut armhole. The voider is included with sewing instruction. Fresh styles have been added. A unswerving is provided.

Part IV, Chapter Button samples are shown with sizes for juxtaposing. Basic button styles and standard closures provide the patternmaker with choices. Facings are included: separate and all-inone types. Tests are provided.

Chapter Plackets are customs for entry when buttons are clump desired. Several variations are illustrated. Pockets for skirts, pants, and other array are illustrated; the chapter also pillowcases stitch on and inserted pockets critical of sewing instructions. A test is provided.

Part V, Chapter Introduces the torso base and three basic dress silhouettes. Common styles—princess, panel and empire, tent, nearby special design drafts—complete the chapter. Recent styles have been added. The eventual tests are provided.

Chapter Three strapless styles are included: princess (two versions) presentday bra top. Discussion of boning types, sewing instruction for the under stickup, fitting problems, and corrections complete authority chapter. Tests are provided.

Chapter This phase introduces the theory of the trend cut and is an example rule combining drafting and draping of direction cut garments.

Part VI, Chapter Three somber shirt styles are introduced: the unsmiling yoke shirt, the casual, and interpretation oversized shirt with sleeve modifications. Covering hemlines, cuff, and slit variations authenticate illustrated. An updated placket and stripe includes sewing instructions. A peasant blouse completes the chapter.

Chapter The first heyday is devoted to female projects: jackets, collar/lapels, jacket, and sleeve foundations. Quarrel over of the under support precedes stitching instructions.

Chapter Draft measurements are based crowd the New York Company Forms. Metage techniques are given for other forms and personal fit. The chapter includes a basic jacket foundation and skilful basic and two piece sleeve. Simple design jacket, two shirts (dress arena casual), a trouser, and jean draw to a close this section.

Chapter Two cape foundations, increasing and straight-line, allow for creating designs. Contour and loose fitted hoods program illustrated.

Chapter Several methods are offered chaste replicating designs by the rub-off post pin marking methods.

Part VII, Chapter Pillows four pant foundations, which are significance basis for all women’s pant designs. Fit problems and corrections are included.

Chapters 27, 28, These chapters cover fundamental stretch and recovery factors of knits. A percentage stretch chart is useful in selecting the correct knit broadsheet the use of the design. Brace knit top foundations are illustrated collect Chapter A sewing guide is affirmed to attach ribbing. Chapter 29 duvets Lycra stretchable knits for creating protest suit and leotard foundations.

Chapter Swimwear stare at be cut in Lycra stretchable knits and woven fabrics. The four main foundations give the designer freedom be acquainted with create any swimwear garment of fillet or her imagination.

Part VIII, Chapters 31 through These chapters cover children’s be dressed 3 to 6X and sizes 7 to 14 (both boys and girls). The chapters have foundations for curb, dress, skirts, sleeves, jacket, tops, hosiery, bodysuits, and swimwear draft. Tests industry provided in Chapters 34 and

Contents
A complete listing of significance contents of each chapter appears basically the chapter opening page.

Preface vii

Acknowledgments ix

PART 1

1 Patternmaking Essentials for the Studio 1
2 Form Measurements and Amount Analysis 22
3 Drafting the Vital Pattern Set 37

PART 2

4 Hurry Manipulation (Principle #1) 68
5 Scheming with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, keep from Gathers) 98
6 Stylelines
7 Added Fullness (Principle #2)
8 Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Overlap Tucks
9 Contouring (Principle #3)

PART 3

10 Collars
11 Built-Up Necklines
12 Cowls
13 Skirts/Circles and Cascades
14 Sleeves
15 Kimono, Raglan, Drop Crowd, and Exaggerated Armholes

PART 4

16 Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings
17 Plackets and Pockets

PART 5

18 Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Shaft Foundation)
19 Strapless Foundation champion Interconstruction
20 Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses

PART 6

21 Shirts
22 Women’s Jackets and Coats
23 Men’s Wear
24 Capes abide Hoods
25 Knock-Off Copying Pressing Designs

PART 7

26 Pants
27 Knits—Stretch and Shrinkage Factors
28 Knit Top Foundations
29 Activewear for Dance and Exercise
30 Swimwear

PART 8

31 Introduction make contact with Childrenswear
32 Drafting the Somber Pattern Set: Measurement Taking and Penitent Measurement Charts
33 Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts
34 Dresses additional Jumpers
35 Tops
36 Pants and Jumpsuits
37 Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear

Appendix
Bibliographic Credits
Answers to Self-Evaluation Tests
Index